Supermarkets would have you believe it’s always mushroom season. It is—for white buttons, maybe. But the first cool fall days bring feathery maitakes, meaty oysters, and other flavorful varieties worth seeking out at the farmers’ market. Whichever one you pick, all they’ll need is a quick sear in a hot pan before being tossed into a creamy pasta sauce.
Step 1
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a Dutch oven or other large pot over medium-high. Cook half of mushrooms in a single layer, undisturbed, until edges are brown and starting to crisp, about 3 minutes. Give mushrooms a toss and continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until all sides are brown and crisp, about 5 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mushrooms to a plate; season with salt. Repeat with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil and mushrooms and more salt.
Step 2
Reduce heat to medium-low and return all of the mushrooms to the pot. Add shallots and cook, stirring often, until shallots are translucent and softened, about 2 minutes.
Step 3
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 2 minutes less than package directions.
