Along with elaborate rice dishes, different kinds of khoresh (a.k.a. Persian stews) are the backbone of Persian cuisine. Ghormeh sabzi is one of the most popular stews. Omani limes and fenugreek leaves (we like this brand) give the dish its distinct aroma. It’s typically served with radishes, raw onion, and more fresh herbs on the side, as well as chelow—steamed saffron rice—or a flatbread like lavash. Omani limes are boiled in a salt brine, then dried in the sun. The darker they become, the funkier and tangier they get. Simmering coaxes out the celery-like flavor of the fenugreek and the astringent pop of the dried limes. “It’s unlike any other stew, which is why I love it,” says Andy Baraghani.
Step 1
Season lamb all over with salt and let sit 20 minutes. Pat meat dry. Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Working in batches, cook meat, turning every 2 minutes or so, until browned all over, 10–15 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer meat to a plate.
Step 2
Add onions to pot, tossing to coat. Cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Return meat to pot; add dried beans (if using canned beans, stir in during last 10 minutes of cooking), omani limes, and turmeric. Cook, stirring, until turmeric is fragrant and coats everything, about 1 minute. Pour in 5 cups water; bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 hour.
Step 3
Meanwhile, working in batches, starting at stem end, finely slice stems and leaves of parsley and cilantro, making even passes with your sharpest knife as you work your way up through the leaves. Make a few more passes over the pile of chopped herbs with your knife until each batch is very finely chopped. (You should have about 5 cups.)
Step 4
Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet or another large pot over medium. Add herbs and garlic chives; cook, stirring often, until bright green and slightly wilted, 8–10 minutes. Season lightly with salt; add fenugreek, crushing it with your fingers to release oils. Cook, stirring, until herbs darken and are mostly dried out, 8–10 minutes more.
Step 5
When stew has cooked 1 hour, add herbs; season lightly with more salt. Partially cover; cook, stirring occasionally, until meat and beans are tender and stew is thickened, 2–2½ hours. If stew thickens before meat and beans are tender, thin with ½ cup water and continue cooking.
Step 6
To serve, divide rice among shallow bowls and ladle stew over.
Do ahead: Stew can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill