Broccoli stems have radish-like crunch and sweet flavor but all too often get discarded. Here they get charred just until they’ve slightly softened, then finely chopped and tossed with briny olives, herbs, vinegar, and olive oil to make an assertive sauce for pork chops (or halibut, cod, or steak).
Step 1
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Cook turkey neck until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.
Step 2
Add mushrooms to the same saucepan and cook over medium-high, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, about 5 minutes. If pan is starting to look dry, add another teaspoonful or two of oil. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until brown around the edges and softened, 6–8 minutes. Add herbs and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil and cook until wine is almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes.
Step 3
Return turkey neck to pan and add broth; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by a third, 25–30 minutes. Strain fortified broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof measuring glass or small bowl; discard solids. (You should have 4 cups. If needed, add more broth or water to get you there.) Keep warm while you make the roux.
Step 4
Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium.
Step 5
Once butter is melted, whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, until roux is golden brown and looks smooth and shiny, about 3 minutes.
Step 6
Whisking constantly, ladle fortified broth into roux, pouring in gradually and incorporating after each addition before adding more. Simmer, whisking often, until gravy is reduced to about 3 cups (it should be thick enough to coat a spoon), 12–15 minutes.
Step 7
Stir in soy sauce for that last umami hit. Taste and season with salt (if needed) and pepper.
Step 8
Do Ahead: Gravy can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat over low, stirring occasionally, until warmed through.
